Hong Kong

Romantic free travel in four countries of central Europe

Days: 19 days

Time: October

Per capita: 21000 yuan

With whom: with friends

Play: photography, self driving, free travel, humanities, money saving, poor travel

The author went to these places


Grain square

St. George's house of Knights

Philosopher's path

Church of the Holy Spirit

Heidelberg University

Published at 12:38, June 1, 2014

Day 3 (10.7) (Germany)


In the morning, drive from Mannheim to Heidelberg, the romantic capital (the distance between the two places is 23 km, self driving time: 30 minutes). After lunch, go to the beautiful ancient city of Bamberg (the distance between Heidelberg and Bamberg is 260 km, self driving time: 2 hours and 50 minutes). After a 3-hour tour, return to vilzburg on the banks of the Rhine at about 5:00 p.m. from Bamberg (the distance between vilzburg and Bamberg is 97 km, and the self driving time is 1 hour), and stay at the hotel Gasthof Schiff.

Travel notes:

At 8:30 a.m., we drove from Mannheim to the famous "Castle Road" and "Romantic Road" in southern Germany today and tomorrow. Castle Road refers to the road from Mannheim, Nuremberg, rottenburg to Prague. Along the way, castle ruins and palaces are like brilliant pearls scattered on the Castle Road. The romantic road starts from the world cultural heritage city of vilzburg, passes through the middle ancient city of rottenburg, the small town of dinklesberg and the ancient city of ogsburg, which are located on the Romantic Road and the Castle Road, and finally arrives at the most popular tourist attraction, Neuschwanstein Castle. The whole journey meanders through the Alps, passing through many medieval towns, churches, rivers and castles. The scenery is so beautiful and romantic that people can't miss it. These two scenic spots are the first choice for people to travel to Germany, where there are world cultural heritage cities Heidelberg, vilzburg and Bamberg; There are medieval cities such as Rothenburg, dinklesberg, Ulm, ogsburg, etc.

In order to visit these scenic spots as much as possible in the limited time, I choose the most representative city. On the first day, take the "Castle Road" to Heidelberg and Bamberg; The next day, take the "Romantic Road" to vilzburg, rottenburg, Ulm and Fusen. Ulm is not a romantic city, but it is one of the most beautiful cities in southern Germany because it has a history of 1100 years. The city's landmark - Minster church, is the world's tallest church spire, would like to enjoy its style.

This route is most suitable for self driving, because there are too many scenery along the way. Only by driving our own car, we can play as we like and walk as we like, can we enjoy and discover the beautiful scenery that few people know along the way, and can we consider the unique style and charm of the German rural town. Compared with the stream of people in those famous scenic spots, you will find that there are more real happiness waiting for you along the road.

After about half an hour's drive, we arrive at Heidelberg, the most poetic city in Germany. Heidelberg is located at the foot of odenwald, south of Frankfurt. The river Neckar, a tributary of the Rhine River, flows quietly around the city. Heidelberg, with its rich humanistic atmosphere, is the origin and development place of German Romanticism in the 19th century. Its green mountains, green waters and imperial palaces attract the vision of countless travelers all over the world.

The reason why I chose to go to Heidelberg is very simple, that is a famous saying of Goethe: "I left my heart in Heidelberg". More than 40 years ago, I was just in my early 20s. A romantic and tender love poem by Goethe once showed my ignorant emotional world. At that time, I had a wish. Could I come to Heidelberg in my lifetime to experience the poet's mood at that time? What is the charm of Heidelberg?

After Xiao Liu parked his car in the basement of a lidl supermarket in Heidelberg, we began to walk along hauptstra? E, the main street in the old city, and toured from east to west. Strolling along the pebble paved path, we strolled along and watched the streetscape on both sides of the city. For hundreds of years, the old city still continues the unique and simple style of the middle ages. Rows of buildings with different characteristics emerge in endlessly. Red roofs and white walls are set off between the trees and the sea of flowers; The painted buildings under the eaves, the flowers on the windows, such as life size figures, and the carefully sketched signboards make the whole street so lively and intriguing. Everything seems so peaceful, quiet and leisurely. I can't help slowing down and looking around to appreciate the inner beauty of the small town, looking for and feeling the ancient European style that I've wanted to go to for many years.

Haupt street is a pedestrian street, with shops and restaurants on both sides. There are many international high-quality brands and boutiques, bars and bakeries of all sizes, as well as tourist souvenir shops that are common in tourist cities. But one of the most striking is the bar and cafe. Passing by the door of the shop, there is a refreshing fragrance, mellow and intoxicating. For hundreds of years, drinking coffee has been fully integrated into the long history of European culture. Here is the stage of the times, but also a paradise for leisure; It is not only a station for drifters, but also a paradise for idealists. People gather there to talk, attack current affairs, or make a cup of coffee, read a newspaper, warm and comfortable, fun. There was a saying in Europe: "if I'm not at home, I'll be in the cafe. If I'm not in the cafe, I'll be on my way to the cafe." It can be imagined that people have a strong demand for this diet. There are many open-air seats outside the cafe. You can order a cup of coffee and enjoy it at any time.

Xiao Liu of Heidelberg has been here n times and is very familiar with the streets and historic sites here. Under his guidance, we first came to the grain square. Grain square used to be a place for grain trading in ancient times, but now it has become a quiet small square at the east end of the main street. There is a statue of virgin fountain in the square, surrounded by angels, so lively and lovely.

Next to the food Square are heiliggeistkirche Heidelberg and Marktplatz. The Holy Spirit Cathedral, which is made of red sandstone, was completed in 1398. After Martin Luther reformed religion, it became a Protestant church, the largest and most famous church in Heidelberg. Unfortunately, it was not opened to the public that day. In the center of the market square is a fountain statue of Hercules, which is imitated from Rome. The sculpture is surrounded by various small commodities and fruit stalls. Facing the square are the oldest Haus zum Ritter St. Georg and Rathaus (if you want to go to the toilet, there is a free toilet nearby.)

You can enter Heidelberg castle by climbing a path on the right side of the eastern end of the pedestrian street. You can see the cable car on the way to the castle. It is said that it may only take more than one minute to get up and down. If you take a hiking trail, you only have 300 steps, and you can get to the top of the mountain in 10 minutes.

Heidelberg ancient palace castle is located on konigsstuhl, a wooded throne mountain on the Bank of the NECA river. It was once the palace of the electors (the nobles who are qualified to elect the Roman emperor) of all dynasties, and it is also one of the largest castles in Europe. The castle was built in the Habsburg dynasty in the 13th century. In the 17th century, the castle was destroyed, and many of the buildings now leave only some ruins. The whole castle is mainly made of reddish brown Naka river sandstone. The price of the castle is 6 euros, including visiting the courtyard, Medical Museum and wine barrel. There are a lot of people in the ticket office. When they went to buy tickets, I went to see the part of the ruins in front of the ticket office, which is the "artillery garden" (no tickets). It was named after King Frederick V, who once placed cannons. In 1615, he changed the artillery garden into a garden for walking and amusement.

Entering the artillery garden, the first thing you see is an "Elizabethan gate" without walls. It was built by the king on her 20th birthday to express his love to his queen, Elizabeth of England. Since then, it has been regarded as a symbol of love.

(reprinted photos)

You can enjoy these sandstone walls in the artillery garden. In front is a deep moat.

On the north corner of the garden is the defensive building "fat tower", which was built in 1533. Now there are only ruins. There are two monuments on the west wall of the garden to commemorate Goethe's twice visit in the past two years. This is the westernmost side of the castle, overlooking the whole city of Heidelberg. On the right is the Jesuit Church.

After buying the ticket, enter the entrance of the castle, and the ticket gate is set between the bridge and the gatehouse. On the right side of the bridge, there is a quadrangular gate tower built in 1531, which is the only building left undamaged at that time. At the bottom of the tower is a dungeon, and the upper two floors are occupied by guards. In 1718, a baroque roof was built on top of the tower.

Through the gate tower, you come to the inner courtyard of the castle surrounded by nine palace buildings.

On the left side of the entrance stands the ruprechtsbau, built in 1400, which is also the oldest building in the castle complex. On the gate were two angels holding a wreath decorated with five roses and a compass. This is to commemorate the twin sons of the designer of the building. At that time, the two children came to the construction site every day to visit their father, but one day they fell from the scaffold and died. My father was devastated. After that, he had a dream in which his children told him that they had become a pair of angels and told his father not to be sad. When the designer wakes up, he adds this pair of angel sculptures to the arch to remember his premature death.

I saw an exquisite balcony left behind on the wall of a ruined building next to the lupesite building. It is said that it is the women's family building, where the women's family enjoyed the scenery in those days. There is a king's hall which can hold 500 people.

Ottheinrichsbau on the east side of the compound is the most attractive building in the whole castle. Founded in 1556, it is a Renaissance style in the 16th century. The whole modeling is based on the palace in Italy, and its wall is modeled after the Louvre in Paris. Gorgeous wall relief and many statues are extremely harmonious together. Above the picture is Apollo in Greek mythology.

On the north side of the courtyard is Friedrich house Friedrich sbau, which was built by King Friedrich IV in 1601. The top 16 standing images with different postures are the most attractive.

The Friedrich building is connected by the East and West doors. There is a lookout tower on the right door and a huge wine barrel on the left. It is a very precious cultural relic. Built in 1583, the Chateau is famous for Heidelberg VAT.

Walking further in the wine bucket shop, you will come to the world's largest wine bucket with a height of 8.5 meters and a width of 7 meters, which has a capacity of more than 220000 liters. There are stairs on the left and right sides of the barrel, so people can go up and down around the barrel, which makes the viewers marvel.

From the ground floor of the Friedrich building, you can go north to the terrace of the castle. Standing on the terrace overlooking Heidelberg city surrounded by mountains, the neika river flows quietly, houses with blue bricks and red tiles are dotted in the green bush, and the old bridges across the two banks are in full view.

From the castle out, continue to walk east, came to the hillside of the palace garden. The ancient garden was built in 1615. It was designed in a luxurious and romantic palace style. It was once one of the most famous gardens in Europe. In one corner of the garden stands a Goethe statue and a Goethe bench symbolizing the eternal love. Over the years, it has become the most romantic place left in people's hearts. Many infatuated men and women come here from afar to find the footprints of love. Imagine that in 1814, Goethe and his lover Mariana villemer experienced the most unforgettable love in his life. Every evening when the lights are on, they walk hand in hand in the castle garden, sharing their admiration with each other, and leaving this song "I forget my heart in Heidelberg" which is still popular today

I left my heart in Heidelberg,

On a warm midsummer night,

My ears are full of love,

Her lips are like a rose smile.

When we say goodbye at the gate,

I remember that last kiss.

I left my heart in Heidelberg,

My heart, beating wildly by the river NECA!

At this moment, if you really experience and feel with your heart, you can still touch the breath of sweet love. You can't help but be moved by the atmosphere in front of you. What is the eternity of love and what is the enduring poem? Here you may find the answer.

Along the downhill road of the broken stone slab, you can see the collapsed and incomplete ruins, that is "gunpowder building". Gunpowder building was not originally named. In 1689, the French army captured Heidelberg. Four years later, the French army transported a large amount of gunpowder again and put it inside the castle. It was only then that they finally split it like this. Since then, the ruins of the collapse have been preserved in this way.

We walked along the river to the Karl Theodor bridge, which is often known as the old bridge. The Baroque stone bridge built in 1788 is the oldest bridge on the NECA river. It was built by Karl Theodor from 1786 to 1788. At present, the ancient bridge is reserved for pedestrians. The old bridge has nine arches. Seeing this bridge, I don't know why I think of the xiaoqikong bridge I saw in Guangxi ten years ago. There are many similarities between the two bridges, but the xiaoqikong bridge in China has a longer history. Standing at the reddish brown bridgehead, the beautiful woods on both sides, the buildings with white walls and red tiles and the ancient castle on the hillside constitute the most classic picture of Heidelberg.

At the south end of the old bridge, there are two 28 meter high round towers. The arch under the tower used to be the entrance to the old town of Heidelberg.

There are two statues on the bridge, one is the elector, Marquis caldiodor (he built the old bridge in 1788), the other is the emperor

The goddess Athena.

At the entrance of the bridge is a statue of brass monkey. The shape of the monkey is strange. I thought it was an old cat. The monkey is holding a bronze mirror. There are two mice under the feet, very lively and lovely. Visitors to Heidelberg come here to have a look and touch the bronze mirror. Because the designer designed the monkey head to be hollow, he can also look in the mirror with his head.

Looking back at the grand castle on the mount of Thrones on the bridge, you can still feel its royal demeanor even though it is a broken wall.

On the hillside opposite the river, beautiful villas are set off among the lush trees.

Cross the old bridge, follow the signs, and quickly reach the snake road schlangenweg. From here, you can go up the mountain to philosophenweg.

The philosopher's path is located on the hill that flows through the North Bank of the Neka river. Across the road from the old bridge, there is a zigzag snake Road (schlangenweg) parallel to the north end of the old bridge. You can reach the philosopher's path by climbing up the road. This is a very common, not very impressive small mountain road. But it is this small mountain road. In those days, great writers Goethe and Mark Twain, philosophers Hegel, Schiller and Feuerbach, and musicians Schumann often came here to walk, think and seek inspiration for creation. Later generations called this road the road of philosophers. And known as "Europe's most beautiful place for walking.".

The philosopher's path is about two kilometers long. As we walk and chat, we unconsciously walk for nearly an hour. The road was very quiet. There were few pedestrians except for the singing of birds and the fragrance of flowers. Online travel friends once introduced that on the path of the philosopher, there was a palm model stretching upward, in which was written "is philosophy today?", Unfortunately, I didn't find it.

The road of philosopher is across the river from the old city of Heidelberg. It's a great place to overlook the old town of Heidelberg. There are many platforms on the path, which can overlook the meandering scenery on the other side of the river. The late autumn in Heidelberg is the most beautiful. Behind the golden leaves, the old castle and bridge, the flowing Neka River, the old buildings on the top of the red tile slope, and the spires on the Holy Spirit church are stacked on top of each other. It's like a colorful oil painting that leaves me eternal memory. Beautiful Heidelberg! My heart is melting, my heart is really left there.

At the end of the philosopher's road are beautiful villas and elegant mansions, including the Heidelberg college. Xiao Liu said that the house price here is the most expensive in Heidelberg.

From the philosopher path down, through the new bridge and back to the old city on the other side of the river, it's late, hurry back to the supermarket to pick up the car. The parking fee in the underground parking lot of the supermarket is generally cheaper, and it costs 12.5 euro in more than three hours. It's already 12:30 noon. It's time for lunch. We decided to buy some milk, cheese, bread and sausage in the supermarket. Lidl supermarket is one of the cheapest supermarkets in Germany. It is a low-end consumer supermarket in Germany, also known as the supermarket for the poor. It contains fresh food and other kinds of food and daily necessities. There are several kinds of bread in Germany, including whole wheat, rye kernel and toast. Xiao Liu introduced his favorite rye bread to us. The bread is newly baked every day. It's warm and gives off an attractive aroma. The milk in the supermarket is 1 euro per liter, which is much cheaper than that in China. In addition, I bought some fresh fruits and mineral water, which costs 35.68 euro in total, which is much cheaper than that in restaurants. This is the advantage of self driving tour. It not only saves food expenses, but also saves the time of looking for restaurants, seats, ordering and waiting. We can visit so many cities and scenic spots in just 19 days, which is also an important reason! By the way, in order to protect the environment in Germany, if you buy mineral water in the supermarket, the mineral water bottle can be recycled, and 0.25 euro will be refunded for each empty bottle.

After leaving Heidelberg, we drove to the beautiful ancient city of Bamberg. Bamberg is located on the regnitz River in Northern Bavaria. In the 10th century, the Babenberg family built castles on seven mountains around the city. Bamberg got his name from this. With a history of more than 1000 years, this ancient city still maintains a strong cultural atmosphere and unique charm. It is a typical representative of medieval cities in Germany. It was selected as one of the world cultural heritage cities in 1993.

Bamberg is divided into two different areas, one is the church territory on the bogstez mountain, the other is the small island surrounded by the tributary of the regnitz River and the surrounding market area. The most famous old town hall (Altes Rathaus) is located in the middle of the small island in the middle of the river.

We first came to kaiserdom, built on a hillside. The cathedral is the landmark and historical center of Bamberg. It was built by King Heinrich II of Bavaria, so it is also known as the Royal church. When the car turns over from the curved slope, a magnificent church is displayed in front of us. After parking (you can also Park in front of the main church for free), open the door, and you can see four Gothic towers standing high in the blue sky on both sides of the church. The two altars with different styles are symmetrical, symbolizing the Roman Empire and the Pope respectively; The thick and mottled grayish yellow stones in front of us all embody the vicissitudes of time.

The door of the church is closed, so we can only take pictures in the square in front of the church. The square is not big. It's a completely sloping square. Then, as you walk to the east side of the church, you can see two pointed towers on the other side of the church, which are surrounded by layers of columns, shining in the sun. It's an excellent location for photography. It's just right for both sensitivity and shooting.

The side door of the cathedral is open for access. It was very dark and full of religious atmosphere. There are various works of art on the wall, including the famous stone carvings of banbeck knights, and the tombs of King Heinrich II and queen. Rows of neat wooden benches lay flat in the hall. For more than a thousand years, generations of Bamberg Christians have been worshiping here.

The ancient building adjacent to the cathedral is the old king's palace built in 1591. When we came here, we happened to be shooting TV dramas. Priests, nobles, village girls and knights in various medieval costumes rehearsed there seriously, bringing us to the secular life of that era more than a thousand years ago.

Opposite the cathedral is the new palace (Neue Residenz) built for the Archbishop in 1703, which is the most luxurious and grand building in Bamberg. The bishop transformed it into a grand baroque palace. The palace was under repair. We didn't go in.

It is said that there is no special place in the palace. On the contrary, the garden outside the palace is very special. It is full of different kinds of roses, so it is called rose garden. Into the garden, inside the layout is small and delicate. Although it's past the blooming season of roses in summer, the rose garden doesn't feel sparse and bleak. Red roses, white roses and yellow roses are still showing off their beauty, which is very attractive. A variety of stone statues with different looks of ANA Duozi are distributed in the garden, attracting the attention of many tourists.

In the rose garden, we can clearly see the magnificent monastery of St. Michael on the mountain of Michael in the distance. We can also overlook the city of Bamberg and enjoy the beautiful medieval architecture and street view of Bamberg. If you have time to enjoy a cup of rich coffee in this fragrant rose garden, what a fascinating thing it will be!

The historical charm of the old city of Bamberg is gradually becoming stronger and stronger out of the church territory on the bogsterz mountain. At the foot of the road are paving stones with a long history and covered with fallen leaves. On both sides of the road are Baroque dwellings and shops with a history of more than 100 years. All kinds of curved, octagonal and sloping roofs are smooth and gorgeous. The walls and window frames of different colors set off against each other. The decoration and greening on the doors and windows show the taste of the host... The art, architecture and culture of the middle ages have created the unique temperament of the city, So that this small city has always maintained its own leisurely, reserved and tradition for hundreds of years. We soon found Bamberg's landmark, his most famous old town hall (Altes Rathaus).

This is the only unique building in the European world built in the 15th century. It is located in the middle of the regnitz River, with a small arched bridge built on each side, and the turbulent river flows past the old town hall. In order to compete with the religious power, the citizens of Bamberg built an artificial island in the regnitz River and built their city hall on it. In 1755, the architect John Anwar added bright murals to the exterior walls on both sides. So that this boat like water architecture reflects the natural charm.

The old town hall standing on the water is decorated with Gothic spire and Rococo relief, which makes the whole building unique. The amazing murals on the flat wall are lifelike, and various historical figures and patterns present the most incisive expression. The most interesting thing is that the designer uses the perspective painting method to let a little angel at the top of the mural climb out of the wall, while an angel at the bottom simply sticks his foot out of the wall. The vivid painting technique is amazing!

On the banks of the regnitz River, you can see the high and low wooden frame houses close to the water. Looking far away, the water beauty of Bamberg, Little Venice is located on the North Bank of the regnitz river. The medieval half wood structure buildings with red tiles and pointed roofs are irregularly close to each other, shining like gold in the setting sun. Gondola boats are moored by the river surrounded by flowers, as if they have really come to Venice, the water city of Italy.

In the setting sun in the afternoon, we stroll along the riverside. We don't need to look for any scenic spots or inquire about any allusions and legends. As long as you stroll in the streets of Bamberg and have a look at those exquisite art sculptures, you can enjoy the beauty.

Towards the evening, the streets of the small town began to become a bit bustling, and the lights in the shop windows lit up, making the dazzling array of souvenirs more dazzling and beautiful. It's time for dinner. We ordered spaghetti at CASA, an Italian restaurant near the old town hall, and drank some local beer. Seven people ate a total of 81.3 euros. Then from Bamberg back to the starting point of German Romantic Road - vilzburg( After driving 97 km (1 hour and 2 minutes) from Bamberg to vilzburg, you can successfully stay at the hotel Gasthof Schiff in vilzburg.

Blog Author

Xiangdong Lai